The Honzo ESD is the first Kona I'd be keen to own. It comes specced with a 120mm travel RockShox fork and a no-nonsense Shimano 11-speed Deore drivetrain. > And wouldn't this be solved by pushing the saddle back on the rails? The other benefit is that you can easily run the Honzo single speed, which is ideal in winter or if youve smashed your mech off a rock mid-ride. This'd slacken out the Kinda Too Steep HTA, raise the Very Low BB a bit, but also increase stack. Tom has written for BikeRadar, MBUK and Cycling Plus, and was previously technical editor of What Mountain Bike magazine. Concur with Vik about the 9Point8 posts, they're only viable option out there if you want/need a setback head and while when I bought mine it was $425 US (one of the most expensive) in the 4 years I've had it I've not had one issue with it, only done colar re-lubes basically, only now have the seals come to need replacing. Cross Country. If I could wave a magic wand I'd shorten the CS from 444m to 430mm, which isn't super short, but would suit my preferences a bit better. SLX hubs have a positive drive with a fairly quick pick-up. The 200 on the ESD for L and XL is bang-on IMHO. At the top I let him go first without much sense of whether or not Id be able to keep him in range. I love my OneUp 210 and I have a pre-production 225 on the way to try from another brand. no idea what the reach ramifications are, but generally not too significant (for me to worry about, anyways). Save 25% + Crankbrothers Stamp 1 pedals (worth 49.99) when you subscribe to MBUK magazine. Drivetrain: SRAM NX 11spd. I was fine with the idea in principle, but not very excited in practice. It's been great in that dept. Unfortunately I'm leaving town for a month and bringing my Daambuilt as it's better suited to the less gnarly riding where I am headed than the BFeMAX so it will be a while before I get back and can get time on the Cotic. The digits aren't quite as extreme as Chromag's Doctahawk, but those numbers (62 HA vs 63 for the ESD for example) reflect a 180mm fork vs. 150mm for the Honzo. Not terrible in the longest setting, but 8-10mm longer would be a better range. The hardtail has been declared dead countless times over the years, ever since the very first full-suspension mountain bikes hit the market. 2012 Fox F29, 120mm, RLC, Tapered, 15mm TA Stan's Flow Wheelset with 3.30 front hub, 3.30 Heavy Duty rear hub Maxxis Ardents: fr/2.4exo, rr/2.25 Thomson X4 70mm zero rise stem Thomson Elite seatpost Easton Monkeylite xc lo-rise carbon bar 27 inches Specialized Henge Expert Saddle, ti rails Odi Rogue lock-ons You can see that I have moved the wheel all the way forward using the sliding dropouts. I wonder if the frame only will every be available here in Europe. I finally added Cushcore to the rear of my hardtail this year, which has made it possible to ride irresponsibly, as if on a full suspension bike. Wich bike is bigger? My hands and my rear leg were tired and sore, but they recovered quickly and the hilarity continued. The Honzo is the solution for the rider wanting something a bit more aggressive than a traditional cross-country hardtail. Refer to our Privacy Policy for more information. Add in a COVID supply chain delay and shipping to Canada and that could easily slide to Jan/Feb 2021. After the first two rides I put in a mismatched pair of Rimpacts (Pro rear and standard front) and we'll see how that goes. The crank length isn't given and the BB height is 312.5mm. A Revelation fork is an excellent choice at this price range. Lots of space for more rubber than the 2.4" DHR II WT. you not progressive enough to be a leader of the new school? I don't really *want* to run a super long dropper, tho. These images show clearance with the wheel all the way forward in the sliding dropouts. Already have an account with us? For more information, please see our Let me know when you work up the desire to drop TOTW on a hardtail ;). The latest version follows in its hallowed footsteps, but a few spec choices mean it also rolls in its shadows. BUT then it would stop being a wheelie machine, which is one of the things I like most about it. Really that kind of static position on the bike when youre climbing etc. Its a bike that encourages you to drop it into a more aggressive stance. I've recently pulled the trigger on a Chromag Doctahawk (barely used frame at an amazing price), and I find it hilarious how many similarities I found in your write up, compared to the decisions I went through. The Honzo lacks the necessary cable stops, no doubt due to the kinked seat tube and super-short chain stays. Save 25% + Crankbrothers Stamp 1 pedals (worth 49.99) when you subscribe to MBUK magazine. On paper, an M/L frame would have been ideal for me, and the L just a tad too large (I'm 179cm and the L's range starts at 180). Others are entitled to their opinions on this, no matter how wrong they are." I like the way it feels so I don't want to adjust any of the settings (rebound etc.) E-MTB-specific SRAM Guide RE brakes with 200mm rotors slow you down when you need. They have been pushing long rear centers for a while now (I think the owner Cy is tall). I have no problem climbing anything squamish or the shore has to offer on it. Nah, doesn't matter if you're a lighter weight person, say 140-180lbs (add a pack, kit and now you're 160-200lbs>), if you've got the saddle slammed way back on the rails, inevitably, at some point you're going to bend and break the rails. Theres a dial on the top of the fork to offer some compression damping adjustment on the fly, which ranges from fully open to locked, ideal on longer smooth climbs. Or Kona could just do it, but that doesn't seem to be Kona's way. Unfortunately I just got a 2nd aggressive HT in a Cotic BFeMAX and even I can only justify so many MTBs. Reini - having ridden the BFeMAX a bunch I wrote up my thoughts here: https://vikapprovedblog.wordpress.com/2020/12/30/cotic-bfemax-review-part-1/. Specifications. A Revelation fork is an excellent choice at this price range. I'm going to ride the BFeMAX for a full year and then see where I am at. He has a particular focus on mountain bikes, but spends plenty of time on gravel bikes, too. MBB - I have a hack that could potentially save you the hassle of the collar re-lubes. The Honzo is the solution for the rider wanting something a bit more aggressive than a traditional cross-country hardtail. Steep STAs are fashionable and help sell bikes to non-hardtail riders looking at the numbers, but its hard to know what youre getting until you sit on the bike. With just a fork to worry about, setting up the Honzos suspension was fairly simple. I finally caved and put a Tannus Tubeless insert in the rear of my HT. Theres little harshness to speak of, and it stays propped up nicely until you really start to hit repeated big hits. The top tube is heavily dropped too, giving you masses of standover to safeguard your tenderest regions on steeper terrain should things go pear shaped. 120mm 130mm 140mm 160mm Frame Material. So I'm looking to upgrade my hardtail's (Kona Honzo) fork. Winter is coming, I'd like to swap out my current hardtail frame and this would be a really solid contender if it weren't for 26" worthy rear center. The 200mm TransX dropper was welcome and can be fully inserted if needed. What with covid and other issues, I've only had opportunity for 2 rides so far, which have been reassuring enough that I've made the right choice and don't need to sell it immediately :) The fork will require some tinkering, or maybe it will have to go sooner rather than later. My surprise about being so captivated multiplied the experience and like the Grinch, my heart grew two sizes. Balanced geometry, 27.5 x 2.8-inch tires, and a solid build kit deliver a fun ride that doesn't exactly push the envelope in terms of performance. Brakes are also from the Deore stable, and were more than accustomed to their budget price but heavy price tag performance. Would you like to receive offers, updates and events from BikeRadar and its publisher Our Media Ltd (an Immediate Group Company)? Downhill-focused hardtail that lets your legs do the talking. Ultimately the STA on the Sick is too steep for comfort if you leave the S2S, and there's a few other geo tweaks/oddities. My thoughts on the longer CS may evolve with more saddle time. Kona was an early pioneer of the sloping top tube frame design and its a key part of the Honzos DNA. have you looked @ cotic bfemax? I've ridden hardtails with long and short chainstays: longer is better. The Honzo is the solution for the rider wanting something a bit more aggressive than a traditional cross-country hardtail. . I was certain I would have received a large frame, considering the 490mm reach is generally as long as I go. And shits. The steep SA felt a little odd at first but I'm on a frame that's too large and the saddle is a little forward. I just did a quick sketch in solidworks and the reach grows about 7mm with the fork sagging 40mm. Sign in to manage your newsletter preferences. And while even Shimano basic hydraulic brakes are ultra reliable, the twin-piston calipers on the Kona use resin pads and specific rotors which dont give the bite or modulation needed in wet or steep terrain and you cant simply upgrade to sintered brake pads to increase the stopping power. When my name came up to test the new Kona Honzo ESD, (Extra Slack Dude!) The only issue I have when riding my hardtail is I tend to be rough on rear wheels. A 170mm fork will be interesting for several of these issues. Outside of testing bikes, Tom competes in a wide range of mountain bike races, from multi-day enduros through to 24-hour races in the depths of the Scottish winter pushing bikes, components and his legs to their limits. While youre unlikely to be best friends with the Honzo on the ascents, all climbs must come to an end and its at this point the bike really starts to shine. There was a time when I used to see DH racers training by riding hardtails in the winter and the few rides I've done so far make me wonder why that doesn't seem to happen much any longer. Now the Hawk that I bought is also a size large, but in that case this means a reach of 497, HTA 62.5 and STA 76,5, and the CS at 435. . grabs popcorn. You just know Andrew Major is biting his tongue (sitting on his hands) on this one. seems that everyone has (finally) figured out that ht's require extra slack ht's, but forgot that sta's also steepen under sag. I'm fussy, but the BFeMax is close? On the Trail photo: Eric Nicoletti. Already have an account with us? To compensate I cut the bars a little shorter than usual to 750mm and pushed the saddle a little forward. Yes, the slimmer 32mm steel upper legs and a more basic air spring made us question whether the Recon would compromise the Honzos ability, especially with a 90kg test rider on board. And wouldn't this be solved by pushing the saddle back on the rails? It's incredible for climbing when combined with 448mm chainstays. With a Shimano Deore drivetrain, hydraulic disc brakes, and . Others are entitled to their opinions on this, no matter how wrong they are. I just wipe the stanchion clean and put a small amount of slick honey on it pre-ride. The downside was that at several points on the descent I had to stop and catch my breath because there was no way I was slowing down. With a long wheelbase, it carves corners, letting the Maxxis Assegai (f) and Minion DHR II (r) tyre combos shoulder tread dig into the dirt while you weight the outside pedal and inside grip. I've been thinking a lot about this lately - winter is coming - and haven't come up with something I actually properly want yet. Thanks! Any fork recommendations for hardtails? > I assume these are issues for the >200lb crew. A stumpy stem and wide bars make it more fun than pig wrestling. My Kona Honzo hardtail served as the test platform for the Auron. It is most at home on steeper, more technical terrain, though. Shimano Deore gears are solid performers though, especially with the Shadow+ clutch-controlled rear derailleur. Often imitated, but never duplicated, the Honzo is a part of Kona's foundation. I went back to trying bone shakers in 2013 after picking up a sweet industry deal on an Aperture. The wide 760mm bar and 60mm stem help massively when descending. I am/was a insert doubter so it will be interesting to see where I land on the issue after a winter of use. Running the setup tubeless would shave grams, and the extra width of the front tyre is welcome over the 2.25in version, which can feel a bit nervous when mounted on the front in the wet. In truth, you might find the rear tyre doesnt last long, though. I only just used my homemade version of slick honey the last time, was using regular grease before and the time before that tried a special marine anti seize grease, which I think may have lead to the dust seal degradation. Double-walled wheels with classy tan Vee rubber tires provide durability and stiffness for bigger hits. Bike A will just require fewer stem spacers. One Size . To stay within the tight budget Kona fits a 111 Shimano Deore drivetrain, where a combination of the 11-51T cassette and 30T chainring actually gives it the lowest climbing gear ratio in this test. Ive only ridden hardtails with super short chainstays (Chromags and Konas) but it hasnt felt weird to me. I've spent a lot of time on XTR 8100 and I can't say I could tell the difference in a blind test. I joined the group of four for the climb but peeled away from the gnarl at the top toward a more civilized descent. Hah, geddit? as back ups if something fails on your full suspension bike (if you have one), Because it's a shitload of fun (particularly on the Honzo ESD) for a very reasonable price. Based on the rides thus far, I may end up on Tannus Tubeless but that's just a hunch without enough data. 150mm is quite a bit of travel for a hardtail. I have an old Nimble 9 and it is great in tight stuff, but gets nervous when the speeds go us. The tight back end lets you pop the front wheel up easily, giving the bike a lively and playful feel even though it is the cheapest and heaviest bike in this test. That winch and drop mentality perfectly describes what the Honzo is about. Honzo, This thing looks great! The latest SR Suntour Auron suspension fork upgrades to 35mm stanchions and offers impressive performance, at a very reasonable $700 price. Pedals Back. I assume these are issues for the >200lb crew. It sports 29" wheels, is priced at $1,499 USD, comes in a range of sizes, including S, M, L, XL, has RockShox suspension and a SRAM drivetrain. Finally, some pics to compensate for the lengthy chitchat: Thanks again for sharing your thoughts, I'm very much looking forward for the 2nd Part! Brakes: Tektro HDM286 Hydraulic with 160mm front/160mm rear rotor Seat Post: Kona Thumb 27.2mm Cockpit: Kona OB Bar/Kona OB Stem with Kona DJ Grip Front Tire: Vee Tire Crown Gem 20x2.6" Rear tire: Vee Tire Crown Gem 20x2.6" Saddle: Kona DJ SPECIFICATIONS All specifications are subject to change without notice GEOMETRY mm inches SIZING + FIT The kinked seat tube means short stays and so a nimble experience going downhill but your weight can get shifted further back than youd like on the ascents. I go by actual travel, not total height from ground to crown, so would be interesting to hear what an engineer had to say. I wished manufacturers worked with sagged numbers for hardtails. That may improve with time, as you'll learn below. And while the Honzo DL, with its longer travel fork, premium Maxxis rubber and 12-speed gearing looks more comparable to the other hardtails in this test, its a huge jump up in price at 2,399. The paint has a subtle metal flake that looks amazing in person, but difficult to capture in photos. Drivetrain. The dropouts are adjustable too, so your wheelbase can be lengthened by approximately 15mm for a touch more high-speed stability. Tom Marvin is a technical editor at BikeRadar.com and MBUK magazine. There is decent clearance for a nice beefy tire and of course much more than this when the wheel is slammed to the back. The original Kona Honzo was a pioneering hardtail. Inserts FTW. Interestingly if the STA isn't steep enough you can move the saddle all the way forward on the rails since your weight is now right above the clamp and you aren't putting that force through a long lever. I really like short chainstays on my hard-tail (416mm), but I use it for commuting, dirtjumps, and messing around the city, in addition to trail riding. Yeap, we're up in your social medias too. Honzo doesn't mean Ram in some ancient tongue. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KnVF14VuKKE&ab_channel=hardtailparty. The 2018 Kona Big Honzo DL is an Trail Aluminium / Alloy mountain bike. One issue with the BFeMAX is the next batch are not due until Dec 2020. I'd be a size large, which I'd argue I shouldn't be (that said i do usually ride a large. You have a very long lever trying to support your weight while bouncing along. Their width is reasonable, giving a good profile to the 2.4in front and 2.25in rear Maxxis Ardent treads, which come with the decent EXO sidewalls, but slightly plastic compound. There was a time when I was a card-carrying Luddite and while I havent swung all the way to early-adopter when voting with my own dollars, I have fully embraced the march of mountain bike technology. ISCG 05 mounts allow you to mount a guide or a bash guard. My first custom HT had a 77' ESTA. As such, the first thing wed do is fit a dropper post fortunately routing both stealth and external is catered for. DESCRIPTION. Its part of the bikes appeal though, as its the shorter stays that make the entry-level Honzo such a fun, snappy ride. I haven't spent much time looking for complete steel hardtails but the value seems there to me. By rejecting non-essential cookies, Reddit may still use certain cookies to ensure the proper functionality of our platform. I own a Kona Explosif, which was the 27.5 version of the Honzo (more or less) and I run a 130mm fork and it feels perfect. . Thanks a lot for coming back with that update - that is one very enjoyable read. On rolly terrain there is nothing like pumping backsides on a hardtail. That alone is worth the price of admission for me. My Naked has a short rear end like this one does and perhaps thats one of the things that makes it a bit more demanding to ride - as in you MUST be hard and dynamic on the bars or the front will wash out. That's not what I typed. You'll always have a bike for mucky winter conditions with the chunky tire wheelset, there's a combination that flatters fitness, a combination that flatter skills, and multiple great options for longer rides. Until I tried one. Geo numbers courtesy of Kona. Fork: RockShox Revelation RC DebonAir Motion Control 120mm. While riding in the attack position you find yourself over the fork, and given the rigid back end you do end up riding the fork a lot. There's not much that can match that feeling when the bike gets light underneath you and seems to disappear. The tube is kinked to shorten the seat stays, so the higher the saddle, the slacker the effective seat tube angle, bringing your weight backwards and compromising the position of the hips over the bottom bracket. The kinked seat tube exacerbates this weight problem. Of course it wasnt as smooth or as easy as the duallies Ive been riding lately, but other elements made up for those deficiencies. Yes the reach will grow but the stack will also shrink. At the moment I am not planning on selling it. I'd highly recommend it for a bike like this. Bringing the back wheel in helps the bike cut nimbly through twisty single track, and with your weight already nice and far back popping the front wheel up into a manual is pretty simple bang on a shorter stem (stock is 60mm) and this would become even easier. It does nicely in berms, holds a line well, and it smoothly switches from side to side. Theres scope to shed weight, whether from the finishing kit or by going tubeless with the wheels, but the chromoly steel frame will never be light. Perhaps it's a purist's dream, or maybe it's the fact that they're just so darn fun, but the Honzos have some serious staying power. Kona Honzo 20 Bike. In fact it took me a while to saddle it up for the first time after it arrived, partially because of travel, smoke, and COVID-19 issues, but also because the rides I wanted to join with my buddies were not appropriate for my first real hardtail ride in years. I'm going to 100% agree with you on this one, a HardTail with a STA steeper than 74* static is not a pleasant all day bike unless you only ride in the mountains and go up and down, on long pedally days with a good mix of flat, rolling, mild climbing etc, no bueno.